Wenzhou Songgao（the steamed fluffy rice cake) is one of the city’s traditional snacks. As the Spring Festival sets in, the streets are permeated with an inviting aroma wafting from shops steaming the rice cake—the unmistakable scent of the Lunar New Year. Upon tasting, you will encounter its signature fluffy texture，slightly chewy mouthfeel， delicate balance of sweetness with a hint of salt，which leave you a lingering and satisfying finish.

Wenzhou Songgao boasts a long and storied history. Its origins likely trace back to the Southern Song Dynasty (1127–1279). Over centuries, these early prototypes eventually evolved into the Songgao we know today during the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911)—perhaps even earlier. This local delicacy has been popular ever since. A depiction is found in a poem by Yang Danfeng (1865–1935), a late Qing Dynasty scholar (Linsheng), whose work was featured in Wenzhou Bamboo Branch Lyrics. The poem vividly described the delicacy:“ ...The pork-filled fluffy cake is steamed in octagonal molds, adorned with red dates and green citrus shreds.” The craft reached its modern zenith in the 1940s through the mastery of Gu Jinfang, whose Songgao became a household name. Due to Gu’s modest stature, his creation became humorously known as“ Ai’ren (Short Man's) Songgao,” which remains one of Wenzhou's most iconic local snacks today.

The key to obtain its refined and fluffy texture lies in the high quality, optimal moisture content and proper proportion of the two kinds of flours, and meticulous steaming.

Songgao Crafting

Ingredients:

(1) Base: Glutinous rice flour, japonica rice flour, and brown or white sugar. Traditionally, the rice is stoneground with water to produce flours with a microscopic fineness. Nowadays, these are readily available in the market. (2)Toppings: Red dates, lotus seeds, walnuts, dried osmanthus, raisins, peanuts, etc.

Crafting Steps:

(1) Dough Forming (The "flour kneading " process): Blend the glutinous rice flour, Japonica rice flour, and brown or white sugar. Gradually add water while rubbing the mixture by hand till the mixiture reaches such an optimal moisture level that the flours can be pressed into a clump but crumble easily when touched; (2)Sifting & Ageing: Allow the mixture to rest (age) for 3–4 hours to ensure uniform hydration. Afterward, pass the mixture through a sieve to remove any clumps, ensuring a fine, airy powder; (3)Fillings Blending : Traditionally, fillings include diced pork fat (marinated with a pinch of salt), sesame seeds, red dates,etc. Nowadays, modern twists like salted egg yolk, purple rice, and taro paste have joined the repertoire. Gently fold these fillings into the rested rice flour; (4)Feeding & Steaming: Line a steamer with a damp cheesecloth. Evenly sprinkle the flour mixture into the steamer, a traditional wooden mold in shapes of octagons, circles or flower petals (Do not press the mixture down to keep it airy). Arrange red date halves as toppings on the surface. Steam over high heat for 15–25 minutes, depending on the thickness; (5)Unmolding & Consuming : Once the cake is steamed to perfection, invert the steamer to unmold the cake. Slice it into pieces and serve warm or consume in a few days.

The enduring popularity of Wenzhou Songgao derives from both its distinct taste and profound cultural implication. In Chinese, the food symblizes reaching new heights and more flurishing year after year. Hence, it has become a must-have daily snack and an auspicious gift at weddings, festivals, and housewarmings in Wenzhou. More than just a local food, Songgao carries generations of Wenzhou people’s warm emotions, embodying their aspirations for good luck and a better life.