During the Spring Festival and other traditional holidays, nian gao (meaning rice cake) is an indispensable staple in Wenzhou’s mountainous regions. Among them, the Shunxi Yellow Rice Cake from Pingyang County — a unique variety of alkaline rice cake known locally as fanci— stands out as perhaps the most renowned. Why is that? Let us unravel the story.
Nestled in the rugged mountains of western Pingyang, Shunxi was once a bustling transportation hub and economic heart of the upper Aojiang River. Its location made it a premier distribution center for mountain specialties from across Southern Zhejiang and Northern Fujian. The Shunxi yellow rice cake was among these trading goods, a testament to its storied history. Its signature yellow hue is derived from a traditional Chinese medicinal herb: Gardenia.
Yet, historical records suggest a craft even more ancient than that for the yellow rice cake: the Wuyangshan Fanci (a special nian gao made at Wuyang Mountain) making technique. With origins tracing back to the Hongwu era of the Ming Dynasty, this municipal-level intangible cultural heritage boasts a history of over 600 years.
Wuyang, known as“ Xizang of Pingyang”, sits in the heart of the mountains at the junction of four counties — Pingyang, Wencheng, Cangnan and Taishun. The Fanci production base directly faces Qipan Mountain, the county’s highest peak at 1,231 meters. The acclaimed flavor of Wuyangshan Fanci is inseparable from its environment: the pristine, sweet spring water from the headwaters of the Aojiang River, and the plump japonica rice harvested from local high-mountain terraces. These elements, combined with natural alkaline extracts from mountain plants like gardenia, form the irreplicable foundation of its unique flavor.
Recently, we visited the Fanci production base in Wuyang and met Mao Qiuhua, an inheritor of this intangible cultural heritage. According to Mao, crafting Wuyangshan Fanci needs precise timing.
The process begins with premium japonica rice, soaked in pristine spring water for just the right duration before being drained and steamed in traditional wooden tubs. The most critical step lies on the addition of natural alkaline water extracted from wild mountain plants like gardenia using centuries-old techniques.
The timing of the mix and the concentration of the alkalinity are paramount; the technique dictates whether the final cake will achieve its signature golden translucency, its smooth yet chewy texture, and its authentic, mellow herbal fragrance.“ Even a hairline’s breadth of error will alter the taste,” added Mao. Once the steamed rice is thoroughly blended with the alkaline extract, it is kneaded and pressed. While still warm, the rice dough is leveled on a wooden board to cool and set naturally, finally becoming the authentic traditional delicacy that defines the Lunar New Year for the people of Pingyang.
Today, the Wuyangshan Fanci production base has achieved standardized processes, with a daily output of approximately 2,500 kilograms. Through cold-chain logistics, these delicacies are shipped to major cities like Hangzhou, Shanghai, and Beijing. In recent years, it has been recognized as a“ Wenzhou Time-Honored Brand”, one of the“ Top Ten Dishes of Pingyang”, and a“ Zhejiang Signature Gift”. It has earned a spot on the China National Travel annual list of featured cultural tourism products.
Meanwhile, beyond the classic original flavor, the producers have developed new varieties of products, including brown sugar, fruit, and seafood Fanci. They are also proactively researching personalized versions using Tiepi Shihu (Dendrobium officinale), dragon fruit, and mung bean. By exploring Fanci’s potential as a high quality carbohydrate, they transform it into hot pot slices, BBQ skewers, or ready-to-eat snacks, integrating it within modern culinary scenes.“ Soon, you will be able to prepare Fanci in over twenty different ways and savor their multi-flavors,” says Mao Qiuhua. He hopes that as their product line expands, Wuyangshan Fanci will completely change the public’s traditional perception of local traditional food.